Winter Is The Best Time Of Year To Buy A Swimming Pool

Why Winter Is The Best Time Of Year To Buy A Swimming Pool

The blissful memories of the summer seem to fade as cold weather approaches, but it’s not too soon to be thinking about the next chance for fun in the sun activities. In fact, few people realize that the best time of year to purchase concrete swimming pools or fiberglass swimming pools is indeed during the winter. Not only is it the best time to purchase, but the colder weather is often the most appropriate time to have the exciting new addition installed. Although it may seem to defy logic in the minds of most consumers, there are several reasons why the winter months can prove to be the more preferable choice.

Swimming pool prices are often much lower during the colder months due to the decreased demand, and the savings can be much more than most people think. Many pool equipment suppliers make the majority of their revenue during the summer and are forced to either creatively increase sales or reduce their workforce during the off season. As a result, most companies are willing to make much less profit on each sale in an effort to keep everything moving throughout the year. There are also commonly older models that must be cleared from the inventory before new units can be ordered and stocked.

Finding swimming pool contractors willing to install pools during the winter months is an incredibly easy task. Similar to the pool manufacturers and suppliers, installers often experience a drastic decrease in the amount of jobs available during the winter. As a result, swimming pool contractors often charge much less during the off season in order to entice potential clients to utilize their company. The competition for available work is greatly increased during the off season as well, so it is often possible to obtain a great deal when shopping around and comparing estimates.

The quality kamagra of work done during the winter time is often top notch due to the fact that there is no unnecessary rush to complete the job. Swimming pool contractors are more apt to spend their time and perform the install at their own pace. Hasty work can result in expensive errors and unsightly mistakes, so many clients prefer their installers to do it right the first time even if it takes a little longer.

The workers that actually install concrete swimming pools or fiberglass swimming pools often seem to be much happier during the colder months. The intensive work required in completing the install is only complicated by summer heat and humidity. Colder weather installs are much safer and don’t require the same considerations and safety precautions as a hot weather job.

Nothing can help chase away the cold weather blues better than planning for and purchasing a swimming pool to enjoy during the upcoming summer and many years to come. The task of designing and selecting the appropriate swimming pool can be very time consuming, but the good news is that there are many more resources available to a homeowner during the winter.

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Getting To Know Swimming Pool Chemicals and Water Balance

Getting to know Swimming Pool chemicals and learning the basics of water chemistry is tremendously important. One of the most crucial things I’ve found over the years is that for every action there truly is an equal or greater result. For example, when you add chlorine to your Swimming pool you’re also changing other chemical elements. This is not such a bad thing, but the important thing is that we always have to be conscious of “If I do this, what will be the end consequence and what else might be effected by this action?”  Let’s face it the only thing essential about a swimming pool is that the water be fresh and clean. Let’s face something else, too: Achieving this can involve more chemistry than you may have seen since junior year in high school. Here are all the essential concepts and terms you need to know to keep your swimming pool clean. Just be sure to follow all manufacturers’ instructions on the package of a chemical carefully.

Now are a few basic tips when it comes to pool chemicals and maintaining water “harmony”:

Some factors mentioned here are; pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness; all affect one another, so it will take some trial and error to get all three in the proper range at once. Also note that before you add any chemical–especially an acid–to the water, you need to first turn on the pool’s equipment. Make sure the water is circulating when adding chemicals!

I suggest using a drip or reagent based water testing kit. Make sure that your  testing kit can test for several different things (i.E.; total chlorine, free chlorine, bromine, pH, calcium hardness, iron contaminants, stabilizer, etc). Drip testing kits are more accurate than test strips. You’ll save time because you don’t have to take your water to a pool retail store for testing and you’ll only spend about .10 cents per week using a few “drops” of reagent.

Basic Steps To Ensure Your Water Is Chemically Balanced:

Here are the items I would suggest testing right away and in this order. You’ll notice that if these items are in “harmony” and where they should be not only will your chemical consumption be dramatically reduced, but also you’ll be well on your way to maintaining your pool in less than 5 minutes per week and using less than $12.00 per month in chemicals.

Test for total and free chlorine.

Free chlorine should be between 2.0 and 4.0 PPM. You’ll test this using your water test kit that I referenced above. Follow instructions on the testing package.

Test total alkalinity

Determine the water’s total alkalinity. This figure should be in the range of 80 to 150 ppm; 100 to 120 ppm is best. Adjust the total alkalinity by adding sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to raise it or sodium bisulfate (dry acid) to lower it. Test calcium hardness. This should be between 200-400 PPM. Following package instructions add calcium carbonate dehydrate to Increase calcium hardness; add sodium hexametaphosphate to decrease it. Carefully pour the chemical mixture into the pool at various spots a foot or two (about half a meter) away from the sides of the pool.

Test for pH. PH should be between 7.2 and 7.8.

If it’s lower that this you can cause equipment issues and also aggravate your skin. If it’s higher than this you will those nasty “rings” around the water line of your pool. To decrease the pH, add sodium bisulfate or liquid muriatic acid. To increase it, add soda ash (sodium carbonate).  Add more chemicals as considered necessary until the water is in balance.

Treating Water With Chlorine…

Put chlorine granules into water in a nonmetal container, following package directions. Always wear goggles and rubber gloves when handling chlorine, and always put the chlorine into the water–don’t pour the water over the chlorine. Mix for more or less 30 seconds, and leave for 30 minutes to settle. Turn on the filter. Getting as far into the middle of the pool as possible (perhaps by standing on a diving board), pour the chlorine into the pool. Discard any sediment left in the container.  Add chlorine three to four times a week for a swimming pool in heavy use. Always test your water before adding chlorine! Try and use liquid chlorine. It will penetrate the water quicker and will have an immediate impact!

Occasionally, no more than once a week you may need to super chlorinate (shock) the pool to burn any built up bacteria, algae and ammonia. Following chlorine package directions make a solution for super chlorination (it will be three to five times as strong as ordinary chlorine). Add the chlorine solution to the pool after sunset, if possible, as the sun’s ray’s break down chlorine. Before allowing someone to go in the pool, test the residual chlorine level to make sure it has deceased back down below 3.0 ppm.  Maintaining the water free of dirt and debris… Remove any leaves from the pool with a leaf net each time you go swimming. Clear out and rinse off the strainer basket of the skimmer once or twice a week, and as often as daily during falling-leaf season.

Make sure the deck clean by regularly sweeping and then rinsing it with a garden hose. Meticulously clean your pool filter at least monthly. Clean a sand filter by backwashing:  Reverse the flow of water through the filter for 2 to 3 minutes until the wastewater is clear.  For a cartridge filter, remove the filter cartridge and wash it with a hose with a high-pressure nozzle. Replace the cartridge.

Do not add harsh chemicals to the water through the pool skimmer, this could damage the equipment.
Take water samples for testing from at least a foot (30 cm) below the surface for a more accurate reading.  Chlorine also comes in a more expensive but handy liquid form, and in tablets and sticks that you place in dispensers to gradually dissolve.

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Concrete and Paver Decking Options

Most swimming pool contractors include an acrylic textured deck as a standard deck finish in their contract price. Acrylic offers a safe skid resistant, easy to clean surface. Below are some of the more common colors:

Another option is to have brick pavers installed. Brick pavers come in many shapes, colors and patterns. We use a random set “Old Towne” pattern primarily. Brick pavers can help transform a pool deck area into a natural looking oasis. They also are much easier to repair if you have any settlement issues. There is no concrete below the paver so it will not crack like concrete due to settlement. If you do happen to accidentally break or shatter a paver it can be easily removed and replaced. Check out some of the colors available below.

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